The beating heart of Wellendorff is the manufacturing site where every piece of jewellery is created. From the closely guarded family formula for the alloy to the skilled craftsmanship of the master goldsmiths, -everything is carried out under one roof in Pforzheim. Discover the goldsmiths’ fascinating secrets right here!
The Wellendorff alloy is smelted from fine gold, silver and copper according to a highly protected family formula. A small yet fine detail makes all the difference: while convention dictates that 18-karat gold contains 750 parts of pure gold for every 1000 parts, Wellendorff’s master goldsmiths add two additional parts of pure gold, -thereby “over-alloying” the gold and making it even more exclusive.
The jewel setter's objective here is to ensure that the hand-selected diamonds to be set on the piece of jewellery can shine with the utmost brilliance. Stone by stone, they are carefully set by hand onto the gold setting and precisely fixed in place with just two gold prongs. The so-called two-prong setting is an art that only the most experienced jewel setters in the world have mastered.
Instead of placing one or two different-sized diamonds onto a ring, ten different sizes of diamonds are set by hand to create the Brilliance of the Sun setting. Each time the ring is spun, the stones shine like a thousand rays of sunshine. The manufacturing process, however, requires the utmost precision and years of experience, and demands great skill from even the most experienced jewel setters: instead of the usual 15, they need around 40 different drill bits, milling cutters, gravers and beading tools for this type of setting!
To lend a piece of jewellery Wellendorff's unmistakable colours, numerous layers of Wellendorff cold enamel are skilfully applied by hand under a microscope. The formula for the cold enamel was developed by Wellendorff experts. It can precisely follow the expansion of the gold and therefore even withstand extreme stress. The composition of the cold enamel and the way it functions remain, of course, a closely guarded secret of the manufactory. Before a new cold enamel colour is introduced, it undergoes extensive UV and climate testing and is weighed down to the nearest thousandth of a gram to ensure that the colours will bring a lifetime of joy.
The finest engravings on different levels give the piece of jewellery its depth; allowing the Wellendorff cold enamel that has been applied to shine in a magical way. The small distances between the engraving levels create unique reflections that experienced goldsmiths can only achieve using the utmost precision and best tools.
The small 18-karat gold guardian angel engraved by hand on the inside of the Wellendorff rings and amulets is reminiscent of the deep meaning of jewellery – giving joy and providing protection – and makes the wearer feel that she is never alone.
The goldsmiths dedicated more than three years to developing the patented folding clasp made from 18-karat gold. This unique creation combines a clasp, a piece of jewellery and a safety device. After more than 40,000 tests, the clasp can be easily and safely put on and removed from the wrist for a lifetime. Thanks to its rounded edges and the soft curved shape of the spring elements, the clasp adapts perfectly to the natural contours of the arm, ensuring the highest degree of wearing comfort.